Monday, September 2, 2013

Day 17: Chop Gate to Blakey Ridge

Subtitle: We couldn't agree to one so here are three possibilities

(1) Lying In at the Lion Inn
(2) I've Been Walking on the Railroad
(3) More Moor
Take your pick!

Today was spent walking across the moorland. After seeing so many old British horror films, I always thought of the moors as the desolate home of werewolves. But in reality, they are high grasslands. In England, the grass is growing on peat.  The wildlife up here is mostly birds, curlew and grouse abound. The grouses house is called his "butt."  These animals are really amazing. The male's call sounds like someone screeching "Back up, back up, back up." Paul used a good part of his day trying to engage in earnest communication with these birds. They are like little submarines, wandering around amongst the endless sea of heather plants and occasionally bobbing up their heads. Many are currently on the nest. The only other wildlife I saw today were rabbits and a couple from Lichtenstein. :)
Our friend the red grouse lives on  his or her "butt" amongst the heather. I know people like that!
 We started the day by being dropped off by our host at the Buck Inn, Wolfgang, at the Clay Bank Top parking lot where he picked us up yesterday. Our first task of the day--climb the hill to Urra Moor. Thankfully, it was our only 'real climb' of the day. Although we walked uphill most of the day, we did most of it on the old Rosedale Railway. Built in the 1850s to transport iron ore out of the North Yorkshire moors, the line was retired in 1929 and is now a normal gauge track with a very, very gradual ascent. We hardly noticed it. The old line is now used for foot traffic and is part of both the Cleveland Way and the Coast to Coast routes. We used it to cross Urra, Farndale and High Blakey Moors.
We spent most of the day walking along an old rail trail.
One of the nice things about the moors is that you can see really great distances across the countryside and have amazing panoramas. The things that are less desirable: a constant wind of at least 15-20mph, gusts up to 30-40mph and nowhere to hide! It was a nice sunny day, but we had to leave our middle layers on pretty much the whole way. Another slightly disturbing thing---while we were looking at the grouse and trying to figure out if we could get in a bit closer to them for a photograph, we saw a lovely sign describing the wildlife of the moors. Included in the wildlife: adders. Adders are amongst the most poisonous snakes on the planet. As you wander through grouse butts, just to be "cheeky," the British National Park adds, "If you or your dog are bitten by an adder, seek immediate medical attention." Very funny. As you look out across the moors, you don't even see a village much less a facility containing adder antivenin. Oh, well. I always thought there weren't poisonous snakes in England. Apparently, St. Patrick's charity didn't extend to the bloody Brits. How very Irish!

We reached our accommodation for the evening, the Lion Inn after 9 miles and about 3.5 hours, arriving at 1pm--just in time for lunch. The current building of the Lion Inn is a converted 10th century farm house and has been assisting travelers for centuries. We were actually glad to have a short day for a change. As you might imagine,walking 6-8 hours per day for a couple of weeks, although enjoyable, leaves you happy to get a nice nap in a comfy warm bed out of the wind and safe from adders at three in the afternoon!
Our lodging for tonight, the Lion Inn, seen from across the moors. The building dates back to 1700.

The remote moorland. Great place to get bitten by an adder, eh?
So all in all, a short walking day across the beautiful English countryside complete with wildlife. Who could ask for moor?

Paul's Ponderings:

This is the shortest and easiest day we've had so far....mostly flat other than the initial climb.   The usual stark and beautiful moors to walk on.   We are now about 30 miles from the end of the walk. 

We arrived at the historic Lion Inn early and had most of the afternoon to loaf about, which was welcome. 

Tomorrow it's off to Grosmont, which is pretty much all downhill.....an unusual state to us on this trip.


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