Day 12: Reeth to Richmond

The living area at our Millgate House apartment opens onto the garden.

BEFORE! Leaving our accomodation in Reeth. We'll spare you the sweaty AFTER photo!

Subtitle: Over Hill Over Dale

After mile upon mile of climbing either mountains or hills, today didn't offer very much in the way of elevation as we covered mostly flat or minor hilly farmland. We bid farewell to our very fit host at Cambridge House (who of course ran down the stairs with our bag in a show of his prowess--and we were impressed. My bag portering would best be described as "dragging." He insisted on taking our photo in front of his sign. Great businessman there!

Paul and the cyclist owner of Cambridge House. Yet another Brit who makes us feel like American underachievers!

 And off we went down the Swale River for a while which is actually very lovely.  Mr M Wise probably said it best in his short poem about Richmond, our destination:

Up above a castle!Down below a stream!
Up above a ruin! Down below a dream!
Man made the castle, rude, forebidding, bare
God made the river, swift, eternal fair.

Upon leaving the river and passing a farmhouse, we essentially bid farewell to the Pennine Mountain Range (pronounced Pen NINE like the number.). We are told we will be on essentially flat ground until almost the coast. The spot of interest on today's hike was the Marrick Priory. This is now an outdoor center and unfortunately,  private. But you can see the old ruins from over the gate. Between the priory and the town of Marrick about 1/4 mile away, the nuns built a set of stone stairs for making the path easier. God bless em! We walked up their handiwork which was probably a back-breaking labor of love. The views yesterday were pastoral and beautiful, but I don't think we will be in for anything stunning until we get near Robin Hood's Bay.  We had a pleasant bog, incline and boulder free descent into Richmond. We had our meal at the Shoulder of Mutton in Kirby Hill outside of town. It was really tasty and a cut above the usual pub fare. One note is that it is about 7 miles outside Richmond, so for those looking at Trip Advisor, be warned that a taxi or a fourteen mile walk is in store should you choose it. But we do recommend it. Probably the highlight of our afternoon was walking into Millgate House, our accomodation. First off, the garden at the house (and we have the garden apartment. Wahoo!) is open to the public and has received the Royal Horticultural Society of England's annual award presented by...Prince Charlie of course! (It's what he does...run around Britian and handout achievement awards--best cow, best rose, best shoulder of mutton, best toilet? Poor man. With all the longevity in his mother's family, he will be entirely shrivelled up before he can hand off the duty of recognizing the UK's gaudiest military uniform to William. Not that Prince Charles won't put the danged thing on and wear it the following day!) The house is also a museum of sorts run by Tim and Austin. They are so amazingly gracious! They were telling us a story about communicating your sexual orientation in Britain. Apparently, if you say, "Are you family?" in the UK, it's a polite way to ask if you are gay.  So when they attempted to go through customs in NYC years ago, they described a queen sized African American lady eying them suspiciously as they both came up to the customs counter, giving them the once over and then asking, "Are you family?" They were so stunned at her perceptiveness, they failed to answer, after which they were told one of them had to go back and get in the line. Anyway, the house is a masterpiece and our room is so relaxing and comfy. Our advice for coast to coast hikers: Stay with "family."

Paul's Ponderings: A welcome low elevation day for hiking across mostly dry fields and paths.  The day started off misty, but became very warm by day's end, perfect for lounging in the garden at Millgate House.   The property was a surprise oasis just off the square in the center of Richmond, with a huge garden apartment for our use -- easily over 1000 square feet with a living room and a large bedroom.  We are about at the 2/3 point of the hike and holding up well, but still glad to have a day off to enjoy this incredible part of Yorkshire.   Our hosts were very gracious and offered us some wine to enjoy on arrival, recommendations on where to dine, and more.   We had a very fine breakfast as well -- one thing I've noticed again and again is that mushrooms are breakfast fare here regularly and they are excellent (if you enjoy them).    We enjoyed more local game fare at dinner last night....more venison and duck.   We heard periodic shotgun fire at a distance during the walk, no doubt related to grouse hunting.   Richmond is the largest town we've seen (and will see) since Manchester, so it's unusual to have traffic and such again.   Tomorrow we start two days totaling about 25 miles of mostly dead flat hiking, which will be our first extended experience of that in some time.    With about 70 miles left in total (leaving out wrong turns), it means we will knock out about 1/3 of what's left on level ground.    Swaledale has been good hiking so far -- dry, not steep, etc.    I won't say "the worst is behind us" just yet, but each passing easier mile is welcome.    Today it's off to see the Richmond Castle and the Easby Abbey (formerly St. Agatha's Monastery).    In particular Easby Abbey is another Premonstratensian one, built in the 1100s originally and, like many others, dissolved by King Henry VIII as part of his vendetta against the church -- his destruction seems to know few bounds across England.   It's a beautiful warm sunny day here in the heart of Yorkshire.

The priory at Marrick. Vehicles not from 1540.

What our hike from today looked like. Audio would be shotguns blasting for grouse.

We reach the outskirts of Richmond. I think this sign is an icon for "coast to coast" types.

The award winning garden at Millgate House.

Paul enjoys the garden and the byproduct of grape production.

Comfy bed....it's making me sleepy just looking at it.