Day 3: Ennerdale Bridge to Seatoller

Black Sail Hostel

Ennerdale Water

Subtitle: Big Lake, Big Hill

Did we walk bog to bog, tarn to tarn or cairn to cairn today? The answer—a definitive “Yes!” After breakfasting at the Sheperd’s Arms Hotel, we picked up our “box lunch,” because there were no stores or even little hamlets (or King Hamlet’s either!) between Ennerdale Bridge and Seatoller. We started our walk along a narrow highway to Ennerdale Water. In the US, we would call this a lake, but it’s hard to argue about the H2O. It was there. This walk lasted for about 3 miles along the edge of a mountain lake with various tarns and crags visible in the distance. We then walked through a forest track and beside the very lovely River Liza. The river reminded me of some of the fierce longer brooks you might see in Montana or Idaho decorated along its edges with firs and conifers. Eventually, we came to the Blacksail Youth Hostel, a small hut at the foot of Loft Beck—our looming nemesis. Amazingly, there was coffee and tea available, self service and an indoor picnic table at which we consumed our box lunch—roast beef sandwich, an apple “flapjack,” a real live apple and crisps (potato chips for you non-Anglophiles).
 It started to rain a bit and clouds rolled onto the face of the mountains. But at 9 miles in, there was no turning back and nowhere to go—no bus, no alternative route and no direction but upward. So we faced the music and I literally began to sing Climb Every Mountain. This inspired Paul to stay well ahead of me on the trail!
After slogging through muck for about a half mile, we started our ascent, much of it through or beside the “beck” or stream and over the crest of the mountain. To magnify the human folly of this venture, sheep poop became scarce for the first time on our trek, since sheep aren’t nearly that stupid. When we reached the cairn at the top, we sighed relief. This was followed by expletives which will be deleted when we discovered the next mile or so was across a field of moraine, rocks of various sizes strewn about to make for treacherous footwork and the threat of a turned ankle.
 As we rounded the saddle of the mountain, we saw the remains of a slate mine which is in use to this day. We inched our way down the steep other side with continued curses, moanings and groanings until finally reaching the bottom at the Honister Mine headquarters. They had many beautiful slate furnishings and decorations which we entirely ignored in favor of drinking a Diet Coke.
 We then made our way to Seatoller, predominantly by the steep downhill road. After a bit of scare in which we thought we actually missed it and were in the next village, Borrowdale (what is it with these Brits and their signage?), we were relieved to find the beautiful Glaramara House , luxury accommodation with a big soft bed, wifi for my dearest hubby, a real honest to God BATHTUB for soaking those aching gams, an amazing dinner and a fully licensed bar serving hand-pulled pints open till midnight. Heaven indeed.

 Paul’s Ponderings: Overall, not too bad for day two, which was 16 miles instead of the 18 yesterday. We are a bit sore, but holding up well. One thing about the “Lake Country” and hiking – don’t be fooled as it’s not just lake walking but hill-valley-hill-valley-etc. And in the UK, the word “switchback” is apparently verboten, which means most of the “hills” are walked pretty much straight up. And today was largely on rocks of various sorts….large, small, broken, loose, and more. Throw in a few boggy sections (over your boot tops) and you’ve got a recipe for a long day of hiking. Good ales and dinner at the end make it more satisfying….and tonight our stay at Glaramara here was quite welcome.

View Back Toward Ennerdale Water After Climb Up